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Your neighbourhood guide to Central

By Lily Valette 12 August 2024

Header image courtesy of Central Market

Central in Hong Kong is many things to many different people—home to some, a business district to others, a place to party, or just a convenient MTR station to commute to and from. Although it feels modern, Central is actually one of the first settlements on Hong Kong Island, and therefore now a hilly blend of old and new. Countless people mill about Central every day, in search of things to do, see, eat, and drink. Read on for our (non-exhaustive) guide to Central.

Note: We’ve already covered all there is to know about Soho here, which means this neighbourhood guide to Central doesn’t include Peel Street, Elgin Street, and parts of Staunton and Hollywood Road.

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Things to see and do

Central in 1895. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Walk the Central and Western Heritage Trail

As one of the first settlements of the former British colony, Central is full of history. Not all buildings have survived the passage of time, but you can still get a sense of what Central once was: a congregation of public affairs offices, British crown-related statues and monuments, and the centre of Western culture in the city. If you’ d like to retrace the steps of someone walking around Central just a few decades ago, you can tackle the Central route of the Central and Western Heritage Trail. The three sections take you around the neighbourhood, from the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens all the way down to the waterfront at Edinburgh Place.

Central Market entrance from Queen Victoria Street. Photo: Central Market

Visit Central Market

Now a modern shopping and dining hub, Central Market was once a traditional wet market. Opened in 1842, what was once called Canton Bazaar has an eventful history. Today’s revitalised building is a blend of history and innovation. Spanning three floors, the retail-tainment destination is frequently populated with workers grabbing a snack on the go, tourists looking for souvenirs, and artisans showcasing their wares. There are around 10 restaurants to dine in on the ground floor, while the street-food aisles can be found on the second floor. Outlets for lifestyle, personal care, accessories, clothing, and much more are spread out on floors one and two.

Photo: Lily Valette

Walk the Dr Sun Yat-sen Historical Trail

Hong Kong’s history is not reduced to just being a former British colony—it was also home to the famous Chinese revolutionary figure, Dr Sun Yat-sen, in his formative years. He was a key persona in the 1911 revolution that ended the Qing dynasty in China, but what you may not know is that he studied right here in Central. The Dr Sun Yat-sen Historical Trail, themed “Art Across Time,” is made up of contemporary art pieces marking locations where Sun lived and worked. It goes beyond Central, but you can check out the Central landmarks to start.

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Photo: Lily Valette

Go to the Victoria Harbour waterfront

You can’t visit Central without making it to the waterfront. From the iconic Star Ferry pier to the Hong Kong Observation Wheel and the sweeping views of Tsim Sha Tsui and the ICC, there’s plenty to do and see. Many events also take place at the Central Harbourfront Event Space, from music and food festivals to carnivals and international art shows. It’s also one of the spots in Hong Kong where you can get your hands on a Mister Softee soft-serve ice cream.

Photo: Señor Ashraf (via Unsplash)

Go to Hong Kong Park

You don’t need to travel all the way to Sai Kung for a breath of fresh air and a bit of greenery. Located by the Peak Tram entrance is Hong Kong Park, an 80,000-square-metre park with beautifully designed alleys meandering through trees, ponds, and even an aviary. Fit for a short walk or a break in your day, Hong Kong Park is also home to the Museum of Tea Ware within the Flagstaff House, a historical building that is easily recognised by its Greek Revival-style architecture.

Photo: Wpcpey (via Wikimedia Commons)

Ride the Central Mid-Levels escalator

Central is home to a portion of the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator. In operation since 1993, the Central–Mid-Levels escalator links Central and Mid-Levels through 800 metres worth of walkways, escalator, ramps, elevators, and staircases. Taking its riders up or down 135 metres in elevation in total, it goes from Central Market on Queen’s Road Central to Conduit Road in about 20 minutes. It’s also been featured in quite a few movies, including Chungking Express by Wong Kar-wai and Christopher Nolan’s second Batman movie, The Dark Knight.

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Photo: Lily Valette

Shop for souvenirs on Pottinger Street

Hong Kong is known for its ladder streets, a name given to steep, narrow lanes with many steps. Most are located in Central and Sheung Wan, such as Pound Lane, Bridges Street, Duddell Street, the actual Ladder Street, and the busy Pottinger Street. Also known as “Stone Slabs Street” in Chinese, Pottinger Street is known for its market stalls where you can find all sorts of seasonal memorabilia. Come Chinese New Year, Halloween, or Christmas, the street gets festive, and you can get all the decorations you can dream of there.

Photo: Alps Parel (via Unsplash)

Party in LKF and Wyndham Street

Central, and more specifically Wyndham Street and Lan Kwai Fong, are some of the most common places people go out to drink and party in Hong Kong. There’s a high concentration of clubs and bars in that area, from dive bars to speakeasies, and clubs with live music to techno havens. From Thursday night all through to the early hours of Sunday, expect LKF and Wyndham Street to be buzzing, with crowds spilling out from everywhere.

Photo: Cheung Yin (via Unsplash)

Visit Tai Kwun

Tai Kwun is a revitalised police station, prison, and magistracy in the heart of Central, and arguably one of the neighbourhood’s most important destinations to check off your list. With its original buildings still intact, Tai Kwun has gradually becoming a centre for heritage preservations and contemporary art in the city. Its courtyard, the old Parade Ground, is a favourite among locals and visitors to visit and relax in while sipping on a drink or having a meal, all the while admiring the old architecture and the towering skyscrapers just behind it. There’s always an exhibition going on about old and new talents of Hong Kong, and some of the prison cells are open to the public, too.

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IFC Mall. Photo: Henderson Land

Go to the mall

Central is home to two big malls, Landmark and IFC. Landmark spans four buildings. Landmark Atrium, Landmark Alexandra, Landmark Chater, and Landmark Prince’s hold most of the neighbourhood’s luxury shops, the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong hotel, as well as many restaurants. Closer to the waterfront, the IFC mall is located inside the International Finance Centre tower, a landmark in Hong Kong’s skyline. It spans One IFC, Two IFC, and the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong. You’ll find plenty of shopping and dining opportunities, as well as the Palace IFC cinema.

Where to eat and drink

Photo: LPM

LPM

LPM, also known as La Petite Maison, is a French restaurant with Mediterranean food aplenty, endless pours of rosé, and a lively atmosphere oozing south-of-France holiday vibes. On the food menu, you’ll find classics such as olive tapenade, escargots, marinated sweet peppers, crustacean salad, beef carpaccio, and more. The main course section of the à la carte menu is full of fish and meat options, all served with tasty vegetables. Every Sunday, LPM serves its iconic La Vie en Rosé brunch, an ode to good food, good wine, and having a good time.

LPM, UG/F, H Queen’s, 23–29 Stanley Street, Central

Photo: Falcone

Falcone

Nestled in the heart of IFC is Falcone, a vibrant all-day neo-Neapolitan pizzeria helmed by the energetic and talented chefs Roberta De Sario and Josh Stumbaugh. Although its imaginative pizzas are the highlight of the menu, Falcone also serves indulgent pasta, and some finger-licking-good homemade gelato. There are a few rules to follow at Falcone, including a ban on iced lemon tea, hot water, and cappuccinos—instead, the team suggests you go for a glass of wine or an Aperol Spritz!

Falcone, Shop 1082, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central

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Photo: Mak Mak

Mak Mak

Somewhat hidden inside Landmark (yes, we got lost a few times trying to arrive on time for a reservation at Mak Mak), this Thai restaurant is well worth it. Serving flavoursome dishes paired perfectly with signature cocktails, Mak Mak is inspired by 1960s Bangkok. If you can take a bit of spice with your food, order the tom yum goong and a bowl of rice before you dig into the kheaw wan gai, a green chicken curry with pea eggplant, coconut cream, and sweet basil. We never leave without a taste of the mango sticky rice, but there are other delicious sweet options, such as the coconut ice cream and the raisin bun with Thai milk tea ice cream, for example.

Mak Mak, 217 A, 2/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central

Photo: Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong

Argo

Step into Argo, tucked neatly inside the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, and find yourself mesmerised by what’s arguably one of the city’s most sophisticated bars. This isn’t just another upscale watering hole—it’s an adventure in fine spirits that’s recognised globally, even making it onto the World’s 50 Best Bars list. Argo’s unique draw is its Field Guide, a book recounting the origin story of each drink, making your sip an educational journey as well.

The bar isn’t just about drinks, though. The daily buffet lunch and the à la carte evening menu are just as impressive, with international dishes that match the innovation found in each cocktail. If you’re here during lunch, the seafood and grill stations are a must-try, complemented by a dessert section that’s pure joy. Remember, the dress code here leans towards smart casual, so leave the flip-flops at home.

Argo, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central

Photo: The Globe (via Facebook)

The Globe

The Globe is the place we always go back to when that craving for British pub food hits. Beer-battered Atlantic haddock, pork and leek sausages, and an order of the iconic Globe pies served with a pint of beer is all we need to feel lively again. The Globe also serves one of the best Sunday roasts in town: your choice of main course comes with a massive Yorkshire pudding, vegetables roasted to perfection, and piping-hot gravy.

The Globe, Garley Building, 45–53 Graham Street, Central

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Photo: S&S Hospitality

Bouchon Bistro Français

Bouchon Bistro Français stays under the radar when it comes to French restaurants in Hong Kong, leaning away from fine-dining airs. It has been serving authentic French bistro cuisine since 2001. Once you’ve taken a seat at one of the indoor high tables or at the semi-outdoor area at the back, take your pick on the menu: soupe à l’oignon, escargots, foie gras, camembert and baguette, moules marinières, poulet rôti, boeuf Bourguignon… only classics here! Insider tip: Bouchon serves a succulent tartiflette as a side for those who enjoy melted cheese all year round.

Bouchon Bistro Français, 49 Elgin Street, Central

Photo: Zuma

Zuma

Japanese izakaya Zuma has become a staple in Hong Kong for fun dining, mostly due to its brunch and night brunch experiences. Both inclusive of two-and-a-half-hour food and Champagne free-flow, these brunches are always a great time. Zuma turns into somewhat of a club at the Yashoku night brunch served from Thursday to Saturday night every week, as live music starts to play and diners get up to dance.

Zuma Hong Kong, 5/F & 6/F, Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central

Zagin Soba 座銀 (via Facebook)

Zagin Soba

There are quite a few places for ramen in Central, especially if you venture to Gough Street. Not as widely found as ramen but just as delicious are soba noodles, another type of Japanese noodle made with buckwheat flour. For soba, Zagin Soba on Gough Street is a must-try. There are only two items on the menu: the chicken soba with white soup, and the seafood and chicken soba with soy-sauce chicken broth. Both come with a towering portion of fried burdock. The ensemble is so tasty, you’ll probably find yourself coming back often.

Zagin Soba, 7 Gough Street, Central

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Sing Kee

If you’re looking for a traditional Chinese meal, head over to Sing Kee, a dai pai dong on Stanley Street. It’s easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there, but if you turn on the right corner, you’ll soon see the plastic stools laid out on the pavement and the fumes coming from the wok. There are many seafood options on the menu, from a simple steamed fish to fish with bean curd, sautéed lobster with ginger and scallions, mantis shrimp in salt and pepper, squid with bean and chilli sauce, stir-fried clams, and more. An order of the claypot spicy eggplant and the dace-stuffed three treasures will complete your meal.

Sing Kee, 82 Stanley Street, Central

Photo: Testina

Testina

Testina serves Italian cuisine inspired by its sister restaurant, Trippa Milano, operating in Milan. A bit different from other Italian places in Central, Testina is famous for using tripe and other unusual animal parts in its signature recipes: veal tongue in tonnata sauce, fried honeycomb beef tripe and rosemary, chicken liver parfait with saba and dried apricot, and pappardelle with chicken offal ragù, just to name a few. Don’t be afraid if the appearance or texture of tripe makes you queasy—the chefs have the cooking technique down to a T.

Testina, 3/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central

Photo: @yatlokgoose (via Instagram)

Yat Lok Restaurant

Yat Lok was founded in 1957 and is famous for its secret-recipe roast goose. Not only is it conveniently located in Central, this restaurant has also earned a Michelin star, putting it on the map for both tourists and people living in Hong Kong. Aside from its signature goose, the lai fun noodles, char siu, and soy sauce-marinated chicken are firm favourites. It’s probably the most affordable Michelin-starred restaurant you’ll get to try in the neighbourhood!

Yat Lok Restaurant, 34–38 Stanley Street, Central

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Photo: @thinkwinehk (via Instagram)

ThinkWine

On the second level of the LL Tower is ThinkWine, offering high-quality wines and good food. The semi-open space is welcoming, and if you’re lucky enough to grab a seat at the terrace overlooking the Central–Mid-Levels escalator, the restaurant is also fit for a bit of people-watching. We recommend you ask the team of sommeliers for some help before you pick a bottle of wine—they know the list best, and it comes with a lot of hidden gems. Complete your wine order with a plate of Manchego cheese and truffle saucisson with Parmesan for the perfect aperitif. If you’re feeling hungry, visit between 3 pm and 6 pm to enjoy the two-hour all-you-can-eat offer with cheeses, cold cuts, and more.

ThinkWine, 2/F, LL Tower, 2–4 Shelley Street, Central

Photo: The Savory Project

The Savory Project

Enter The Savory Project at your own risk, as every sip is an adventure. Don’t just walk in expecting to grab a random drink with a friend—come in only if you’re looking to awaken all of your senses. The unique selection of cocktails focused on umami flavours rotate often, always highlighting savoury ingredients. The setting is intimate, but the vibe is lively and welcoming. Plus, it was founded by the team behind Coa, which has ranked highly on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list for years, so you know you’re in safe hands.

The Savory Project, 4 Staunton Street, Central

Photo: Popinjays

Popinjays

Perched on the top floor of The Murray Hong Kong, Popinjays is more than just a dining spot; it’s a statement of style and a celebration of good taste. Named after the colourful parrots that brighten up Hong Kong’s parks, this rooftop bar and restaurant captures a playful yet refined essence. From its modern, chic décor to the breathtaking view of the city, everything about Popinjays trills elegance.

The menu here is a testament to creative European cuisine, with dishes that are as visually appealing as they are delicious. The chef’s use of fresh, seasonal ingredients ensures each plate is a mouthwatering surprise. Post-dinner, wander over to the bar area and relax with a signature cocktail, perfectly blended by skilled mixologists. The outer terrace, with its enchanting city lights, makes for an ideal spot to unwind and soak up the night’s ambience. Dressing smart is the way to go, as Popinjays attracts a chic crowd.

Popinjays, R/F, The Murray Hong Kong, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central

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Lily Valette

Editor

Born and raised in the French countryside, Lily arrived in Hong Kong looking for an adventure. Passionate about books, she spent some time in Parisian publishing houses and is the author of an illustrated book about hair. Life in Hong Kong for her entails looking for seaside places to eat and a lot of hiking.

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