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Header image courtesy of @ernesthuang (via Instagram)
Originally published by Ching Yuen. Last updated by Annette Chan and Lily Valette.
Commonly referring to the area found “above” Sheung Wan, the neighbourhood of Poho essentially covers the streets of Po Hing Fong and Tai Ping Shan, along with the surrounding area. It is a smattering of cafés and petite boutiques, each with a unique charm that separates the neighbourhood from the rest of Sheung Wan. If you’re still not quite sure where Poho is and would like to explore it for yourself, keep reading to see what we like to do in the area!
This Poho outpost of Sham Shui Po dumpling and noodle shop Hei Baat Fong has quickly become one of our favourite lunch spots thanks to its comfortable environs, infinitely customisable menu, and fresh, handmade dumplings. You can choose from a number of noodle or rice sets—we like the tossed satay beef noodles—or customise a bowl of soup noodles as part of the self-selected noodles. The set, which allows for either two or three toppings, requires diners to choose the type of noodle and soup base—the secret recipe hot and sour soup is our favourite, though the special nourishing fish broth is a close second.
If you’d rather feast purely on dumplings, then you’re spoiled for choice at Hei Baat Fong—pick from over 15 variants, from soup dumplings to fried potstickers and bite-sized wontons. Can’t get enough? You can also stock up on their uncooked dumplings and freeze them at home for a quick and easy meal.
Hei Baat Fong, 3–3A Upper Station Street, Tai Ping Shan, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2590 0800
This local cha chaan teng has been around long before Poho became trendy (or was even nicknamed “Poho”), with a reputation for healthy and tasty Cantonese food that remains to this day. The owner, who is a traditional Chinese medicine practitioner, wanted to offer a healthier counterpart to deep-fried or ultra-processed foods, and came up with his Gold Medal pork chop rice, which features juicy stir-fried chops drizzled in sweet soy sauce atop plain white rice.
There are other home-style dishes on the menu, of course, including breakfast-time cha chaan teng classics like thick-cut toast and yuenyeung, but we think their pork chop bun may be one of the best ways to start the day.
For Kee, Shop J-K, 200 Hollywood Road (entrance on Pound Lane), Sheung Wan | (+852) 2546 8947
Bringing Parisian bistro vibes to Pound Lane, Bouillon has cemented itself as a popular spot in the neighbourhood in the years that it has been open. Come by during weekdays and you’ll find office workers queuing for its two-course lunch menu at 12 pm on the dot. Expect bistro classics like foie gras terrine and beef tartare—which comes in a hefty, main-portion-worthy 150-gramme serving—as well as a few “rascal dishes” and a formidable wine selection from mainly organic, sustainable, and family-owned wineries.
Bouillon, 6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2886 0056
We love the rich flavours of Spanish Ibérico ham, so this Spanish ham shop is a slice of heaven for us. Reserva Ibérica has a variety of Spanish hams, including our favourite Bellota ham, as well as Spanish cheeses, sardines, and wines. There’s a small area outside of the shop for you to indulge in a ham and cheese board of your own choice along with a glass of wine or sangria, though we would probably still buy and take everything home!
Reserva Ibérica Ham Shop, 194 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2111 0066
Founded and designed by Hong Kong architect Barrie Ho as a creative place “for opinions and ideas” and “knowledge for art, wine, and food,” this sleek, minimalistic Italian restaurant cuts an uncharacteristically glamorous figure among the boutiques and bistros of Tai Ping Shan Street. Bedecked with mirrored walls and small two-seater tables, Crit Room is practically built for special dates. Its homemade red prawn spaghetti with lobster sauce is a must-try, as well as the signature seafood platter, which includes red shrimp, scallop, and homemade red bell pepper and cherry tomato chutney.
Crit Room, Shop C, 30 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2366 9608
A coffee shop brimming with Hong Kong culture, Lof 10 is the perfect example of how modern style blends with the local eccentricities. Its logo is shaped like an old neon-lit sign, and it is also engraved on the retro sliding metal door at the entrance. The laid-back venue offers a range of flavoured coffees that can also double as an aesthetic Instagram post, such as the flat white or the swirling matcha in the green tea latte.
Lof 10, Flat B, 1 U Lam Terrace, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2540 2210
Few places epitomise Poho’s funky, artsy vibe better than Oldish, a slopeside vintage-inspired café on Tung Street. Filled with retro furniture, antiques, and old movie posters, you instantly get a warm and cosy feeling before even sitting down. Oldish offers a mix of Asian and Western flavours on their menu, including brunch-friendly plates like the Oldish all-day breakfast and truffle eggs Benedict, as well as pasta, risottos, burgers, and ribs.
Oldish, 53 Tung Street, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2697 3313
Hidden in the top parts of Poho, you can find over 280 types of international crafts beers at Craftissimo. Their shop lets you choose to either take the beers home with you or enjoy them in the small outdoor area just outside the shop. They also have regular tap-takeovers from craft breweries and beer launches, such as Magpie Brewing, Birra del Borgo, and Saigon Sour, so be sure to keep your eyes peeled. Want something to snack on? Check out their selection of sweet treats from homegrown ice lolly brand Nice Pops—we’re hopelessly in love with the double chocolate fudge flavour.
Craftissimo, Tai Ping Building, Shop D, Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan
On the corner of Hollywood Road and Lok Ku Road, Corks is the most popular wine bar in the Poho area. Its wooden bar, chalkboards, and warm lighting invite passers-by for a fresh glass of wine. The floor-to-ceiling glass doors are left wide open, with happy customers taking over the nearby pavement when crowds flood the place after work and on weekends. Doubling as your wine supplier, takeaway bottles are available at a reasonable price! Corks, thanks to its super-friendly staff and cool atmosphere, is now a staple of the neighbourhood.
Corks Wine & Bar, 205C Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan | (+852) 9258 5352
Nordic cuisine is not so commonly found in Hong Kong, but tucked away in a corner of Tai Ping Shan is Embla, here to satisfy your Nordic cravings with a touch of French influence. Its menu might drastically change according to the season, but products are, as much as possible, sourced from producers working on bettering ethical and environmental practices.
Embla, 11 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2559 8508
Its bright orange storefront might be what leads you to Espresso Remedy, but it is the great coffee that will have you coming back. This humble corner café has a few outdoor seats that are perfect for a sunny afternoon, and many takeaway options to start your day the perfect way. If you dare to stray away from your classic coffee order, Espresso Remedy has seasonal speciality drinks. So far, we’ve seen them whip up a butterfly pea flower honey latte, a ginger latte, a salted caramel cappuccino topped with honeycomb, and more.
Espresso Remedy, 22–24A Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan
El Vaso de Oro is a bodega and tapas bar in the heart of Poho, perfect for an intimate and cosy meal with a loved one or for making good memories with friends over a comforting dinner. Its menu includes classic tapas such as patatas bravas, chorizo piquante, Padrón peppers, and croquetas, as well as the restaurant’s speciality Spanish seafood stew. It is, in our opinion, one of the best Spanish restaurants in Hong Kong.
El Vaso de Oro, 44 Sai Street, Tai Ping Shan |(+852) 2506 2518
You might have guessed it from the name—this little café specialises in single-origin chocolates, namely from Tanzania, India, and the Philippines. To pair with a chocolatey drink, a full breakfast is available, as well as chocolate pudding. With dark green interiors and cute geese figures for its décor, this shop is a must-try if you are looking for a quiet break and a delicious snack.
Goose’ Chocolate, 16 Tai Ping Shan Street, Tai Ping Shan
Specialising in Southern French cuisine, Racines is certainly on the more expensive side of dining. With only 18 seats and an open kitchen, a meal at Racines is an exceptional experience you should maybe save for special occasions. The restaurant is bathed in warm lights, with brick, wood, and other details that recall the French countryside. You can visit Racines for lunch as well as dinner with two fine-dining degustation menus carefully created by chefs and long-time friends Romain Dupeyre and Adrien Castillo.
Racines, 22 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan
A luxury boutique florist hidden in Poho, Forest by K creates art pieces with their flower arrangements. They offer bespoke bouquets, flower arrangements for your home or for events, as well as wedding flower arrangements. The flowers are more on the expensive side—with bouquets starting from $1,500—but for the aesthetic they provide, we say it’s well worth it. Be sure to get in touch with the florist at least three to four days in advance to give them ample time to prepare!
Forest by K, 40 Tung Street, Sheung Wan | (+852) 2877 0989
For shopping sprees with more soul than crowds, forget about the malls and visit Poho! Antique, collectibles, tailoring, and fashion stores populate the quiet streets of the neighbourhood. Among them is the multi-brand clothing and style boutique Holy Club. With many hip items on sale, Holy Club is also an official retailer of New Balance and G-Shock items for those in need of a wardrobe, shoe, and wrist-candy upgrade! If you would like a better idea of what is on offer, its website lists every item available and allows you to order and pick-up from its Poho location.
Holy Club, 28 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan
Rapha Hong Kong is many things at once: a cycling clothing and accessory boutique, a coffee shop, a lifestyle space, and a cycling club. Originally a British brand, Rapha has expanded worldwide and it is only natural that it found a home in Hong Kong, a city with plenty of mountain biking opportunities. You can shop there, learn more about the sport while enjoying coffee and a small bite, watch bike races, and join the weekly group rides!
Rapha Hong Kong, 56 Sai Street, Sheung Wan | (+852) 9442 3707
Excuse the pun when we say that this Moroccan-inspired boutique is a hidden gem. Full of crystals, jewellery, home décor, affirmation cards, and more, Nelles Gemmes is a wonderful place to visit regardless of whether or not you are on the hunt for new shiny possessions. Its mosaic door frame and exterior wow every visitor. It is also a great place to learn more about gems thanks to the incredible variety of merchandise and the passion of the store owner.
Nelles Gemmes, G/F, Tung Street, Sheung Wan
In need of a more spiritual experience? Check out Samadhi Training Centre for the Soul, which offers programmes for both children and adults, including crystal bowl sound healing meditation, weekly meditation classes, and more.
Samadhi Training Centre for the Soul, 2 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan | (+852) 9311 2915
A picturesque two-storey bookstore in one of the alleyways of Poho, Mount Zero is a bookstore-slash-café that sells the owner’s personally curated collection of books. Located next to a local cha chaan teng (茶餐廳; Hong Kong-style tea restaurant), take care to avoid visiting during lunch hours, as the area around will be packed with office workers. Otherwise, it is a quiet and serene space with a public reading room on the second floor.
Mount Zero, Shop C, 6 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan
Blue Lotus Gallery is an independent art gallery that has presented some of the biggest and most influential photographic exhibitions in Hong Kong. Located in the quiet neighbourhood of Poho, wander in to can find books and prints of old and new Hong Kong shown through the eyes of seasoned photographers as well as emerging contemporary artists.
Blue Lotus also holds the honour of being the only authorised gallery and agent of seminal photographer Fan Ho, whose gorgeous photographs of Hong Kong life throughout the 1950s and 1960s earned him the nickname the “Cartier-Bresson of the East.”
Blue Lotus Gallery, 28 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan | (+852) 5590 3229
Although the vibrance of the Poho neighbourhood is largely due to its inhabitants actually living where they live—working out there, often hopping to a nearby café, shopping, walking the dog, and inviting friends over to their home—it is also a place filled with history. A visible testimony to Poho’s past can be found on Tai Ping Shan Street, where a temple that was built in 1840 still stands in honour of Kwun Yum (or Guanyin), the goddess of mercy in Chinese mythology.
Kwun Yum Tong, 34 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan
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